Dating back to prehistoric man, hides and leather have been used to clothe, shelter, protect and transport mankind, playing vital role in our early existence.
Leather is split into layers and sold as different products:
The use of animal hides in the earliest of times has been tied to the Australopithecus, the inhabitants of Africa, 2 million years ago. Historians have found thousands of stone tool artifacts proving that the Australopithecus were the first users of stone tools. It is believed that this group hunted and gathered for sustenance and used stone tools to make use of animal hides for protection and shelter from the elements.
Cro Magnon man appeared thirty-five to forty thousand years ago in Europe. During his time, Cro Magnon man (homo sapiens) had perfected the use of stone tools in order to prepare skins and had mastered the art of leather making. Cave paintings from the Upper Paleolithic period (Old Stone Age) show men and women wearing garments produced from animal hides.
The Old Stone Age was an age of purely hunting and gathering while in the Neolithic, domestication of plants and animals had occurred. Cave paintings depict figures wearing animal skins and furs, revealing an active industry in preserving hides and skins.
The Neolithic Period introduces clothing that was made of animal skins. Archeologists have discovered large numbers of bone and antler pins which were likely used to fasten leather. In 2008, the discovery of a fully in-tact shoe, the Areni-1, was found in Armenia. The shoe dates back to 3,500BC and is made of cowhide and is the oldest known leather footwear named. It has become known as “The World’s Oldest Shoe."
Leather began playing a more important role in the economy during the Mesolithic period. It continued into the Neolithic and Bronze Age with the development of the leather bucket, stitched leather balls, dagger sheaths, gloves, sandals and shoes.
Otzi, the Iceman, was found in the Austrian Alps where he died sometime around 3,300 BC. When his body was discovered in 1991, he was clad in bearskin and deerskin from head to toe providing more evidence of the common use of animal skin for protection from the elements.
Excavations in Egypt unearthed cave paintings at Rekhmire (circa 15th century BCE) depicting scenes of men performing tanning practices. Early Sumerian texts indicate an extensive trade of raw hides and skins as well as tanning materials and finished leather. And through discoveries of leather artifacts, there is evidence that leather use spanned all areas of daily life such as clothing, military equipment, chariots, harnesses, food containers and musical instruments. Sumerian texts also describe the process for preparing leather for use in making drums for religious festivals. Early uses of hides also include Parchment and Vellum which were used for record keeping by creating early documents and scrolls.
These substrates for writing are important to our lesson because they were created from the skins of cow, goat and sheep. Vellum exclusively utilized calfskin whereas parchment utilized a variety of skins including goat, sheep or calf skin. Parchment and Vellum are not tanned products. The process of creating these ancient forms of paper include hair removal and stretching with tension across frames to dry. Once dry, the surface is suitable for writing. The substrate is not stable in that once wet, it can convert back to rawhide. The earliest recorded use of parchment dates back to the 6th dynasty (24th Century). The use of parchment continued on into the Middle Ages when paper was more affordable and printing was invented.
There is also evidence that leather was first stretched over chairs during this time period and was quite possibly the first use of leather in furniture.
In Greece and Rome, leather was heavily used for armor and armament. During this time, Cuir Bouilli was developed and used for armor and helmets. This art of boiling and molding rawhide creates an impenetrable substrate to weapons, such as arrows. The Greek Army was outfitted in an all leather uniform including helmets, shields, jackets and greaves to cover the legs. The Roman Army employed its own tanneries and leather workshops for outfitting their troops. The Roman Army suited up in leather covering their chests and skirts made of knee length leather straps. In addition, there was widespread use of leather for military equipment such as saddles, harnesses and shields.
During the middle ages, leather manufacturing remained relatively unchanged, but it was being practiced widely throughout Europe. Primitive methods were initially used to prepare and tan hides. Often stale beer, urine, fermented barley and leaves were used. The primary process for tanning during this time was Vegetable Tanning.
By the 11th century, there were 3 tanning processes: Chamoising, Mineral Tanning and Vegetable Tanning. Chamois was originally achieved through a special process of oiling hides using a local cod oil. This type of tannage produced a very soft and porous material and was originally popular with the Whittawyer or glove maker.
In Europe, due to an increased population and the improved standard of living, tanners were challenged with keeping up with demand. This made an impact on the leather trade. A shortage of hide supply and tanning materials lead to increased prices and a need for change. Changes in agriculture took place and new developments with vegetable tanning agents began.
It was not until the last quarter of the 19th century that chrome tanning was implemented because of a problem in the manufacturing process of women’s corsets. The cost of whalebone in corsets gave way to steel. The acids in leather during this time reacted with steel in a negative manner. The answer to this problem was Chrome Tanning.
Leather is an important sector in the global economy with an estimated trade value of $68 billion annually.
Chrome Tanning accounts for approximately 90% of leather produced in the world today. It was invented and soon after commercialized in the late 19th century. Chrome tanning is a mineral tanning process using chromium salts to convert unstable hides into leather.
Vegetable tanning is one the oldest methods of tanning using tree and plant extracts to convert perishable hides to leather. Vegetable tanning is still utilized today, but has become a more specialty method. New technologies are on the horizon with an industry focused on continuous improvements to make leather even better.
It is human history with leather and the wide range of uses that still connects us to this unique substrate. Its durability and flexibility make it the strongest option for cover on our furniture and automobiles. Its comfort and beauty offers a tactile quality that lends itself as the original choice for clothing and fashion.
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